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<span id="openzim-page-title" class="mw-page-title-main"><span class="mw-page-title-main">Embroidered binding</span></span>

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<p><b>Embroidered binding</b>, also referred to as needlework or textile binding, describes a book bound in cloth and decorated with a design on one or both covers and sometimes the spine.<sup id="cite_ref-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The binding is created for the individual book.<sup id="cite_ref-BL_2-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-BL-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-ABC_Binding_3-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-ABC_Binding-3"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>3<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>

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<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="History">History</h2></div>

<p>Embroidered bindings were produced by professional as well as amateur embroiderers or needleworkers.<sup id="cite_ref-ABC_collectors_4-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-ABC_collectors-4"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>

</p><p>Examples of embroidered <a href="Bookbinding" title="Bookbinding">bookbindings</a> are known throughout <a href="England" title="England">England</a> and <a href="Europe" title="Europe">Europe</a> from the <a href="13th_century" title="13th century">13th century</a> to the present, and were most popular in England during the first half of the <a href="17th_century" title="17th century">17th century</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-ABC_Binding_3-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-ABC_Binding-3"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>3<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> These bindings were most often created for prayer books, <a href="Bible" title="Bible">Bibles</a>, devotional texts, and as presentation copies for <a href="Clergy" title="Clergy">clergy</a> or the royal family.<sup id="cite_ref-BL_2-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-BL-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>

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<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Designs">Designs</h2></div>

<p>Designs include flowers and foliage, sacred emblems or royal portraits,<sup id="cite_ref-ABC_collectors_4-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-ABC_collectors-4"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> <a href="Arabesque" title="Arabesque">arabesque</a>, <a href="Heraldry" title="Heraldry">heraldic</a>, or figural elements.<sup id="cite_ref-ABC_Binding_3-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-ABC_Binding-3"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>3<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> "The most common designs were <a href="Old_Testament" title="Old Testament">Old Testament</a> scenes featuring <a href="Adam_and_Eve" title="Adam and Eve">Adam and Eve</a>, <a href="Moses" title="Moses">Moses</a> and <a href="Aaron" title="Aaron">Aaron</a>, <a href="Solomon" title="Solomon">Solomon</a> and the <a href="Queen_of_Sheba" title="Queen of Sheba">Queen of Sheba</a>, or <a href="David" title="David">David</a> playing his harp, and <a href="New_Testament" title="New Testament">New Testament</a> scenes and figures of the <a href="Saint" title="Saint">saints</a>. There were also <a href="Allegory" title="Allegory">allegorical</a> figures, such as Peace and Plenty or Faith and Hope, flora and fauna, and heraldic subjects. The use of portraits came into fashion in the 17th century. Initials and <a href="Coat_of_arms" title="Coat of arms">coats of arms</a> were added to personalize the work."<sup id="cite_ref-BL_2-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-BL-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>

</p><p>The individual design elements consisted of purls, lizzarding, and spangles (now frequently called <a href="Sequin" title="Sequin">sequins</a>).<sup id="cite_ref-:0_5-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:0-5"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Purls are made from metal thread (usually silver or gold) that has been coiled into a tight spiral and sewn on top of the base fabric.<sup id="cite_ref-:0_5-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:0-5"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Lizzarding is the process of attaching small pieces of metal to the base fabric with cross stitches.<sup id="cite_ref-:1_6-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>

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<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Materials">Materials</h2></div>

<p>Embroidered bindings use one of three materials as the base for the design: <a href="Satin" title="Satin">satin</a>, <a href="Velvet" title="Velvet">velvet</a>, or <a href="Canvas" title="Canvas">canvas</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:1_6-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Canvas covers are typically covered entirely by the embroidery.<sup id="cite_ref-:1_6-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Satin and velvet covers usually allow some of the base material to show through, due to their decorative nature.<sup id="cite_ref-:1_6-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Velvet bindings often featured embroidered <a href="Appliqu%C3%A9" title="Appliqué">appliqués</a>, with little to no embroidery done on the velvet itself.<sup id="cite_ref-:1_6-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> "The cloth was embroidered separately before it was glued or stitched to the boards of a ready bound book; embroidered covers do not form part of the binding structure."<sup id="cite_ref-BL_2-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-BL-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>

</p><p>The type of threads used varies, but most covers use <a href="Silk" title="Silk">silk</a> thread, <a href="Goldwork_(embroidery)" title="Goldwork (embroidery)">gold thread</a>, or <a href="Silver_thread" class="mw-redirect" title="Silver thread">silver thread</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:0_5-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:0-5"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The silver and gold threads were made by twisting thin pieces of silver or gold around a strand of silk or <a href="Flax" title="Flax">flax</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-:0_5-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:0-5"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>

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<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Image_gallery">Image gallery</h2></div>

<div class="gallerytext">Folger Shakespeare Library's V.a.94. A velvet and embroidered binding by Esther Inglis (?), ca. 1608. Red velvet over pasteboard, decorated with silver thread embroidery and seed pearls. Silver clasp.</div>

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<div class="gallerytext">Folger Shakespeare Library's STC 11317. An English embroidered silver wire binding, ca. 1613. Woven silver wire over millboards with silk embroidery.</div>

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<div class="gallerytext">Folger Shakespeare Library's STC 2689 copy 1. A binding of embroidered white satin featuring David holding Goliath's head, ca. 1639. White satin over pasteboards, embroidered in colored silks and silver spangles.</div>

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<div class="gallerytext">Folger Shakespeare Library's STC 2689 copy 2. Mid 17th-century English embroidered binding with floral bee design and gauffered edges.</div>

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<div class="gallerytext">Folger Shakespeare Library's STC 23082 copy 6. Early 17th century English embroidered binding with initials.</div>

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<div class="gallerytext">An edition of the Missale Romanum featuring a silver and gold embroidered cover. Printed by Nicolai Pezzana in Venice in 1716, exact date of binding unknown (after 1776). Book is currently housed at the Thomas Fisher Rare Book Library, University of Toronto.</div>

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<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="References">References</h2></div>

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<div class="side-box-text plainlist">Wikimedia Commons has media related to <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Embroidered_book_covers" class="extiw external" title="commons:Category:Embroidered book covers">Embroidered book covers</a></span>.</div></div>

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</style><cite id="CITEREFBerger2023" class="citation book cs1">Berger, Sidney E. (2023). <i>The Dictionary of the Book: A Glossary for Book Collectors, Booksellers, Librarians, and Other</i> (2nd ed.). Rowman & Littlefield. p. 165. <a href="ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <bdi>978-1-53-815133-4</bdi>.</cite></span>

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<li id="cite_note-BL-2"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-BL_2-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-BL_2-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-BL_2-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-BL_2-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><cite id="CITEREFMarks" class="citation web cs1">Marks, Philippa. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.bl.uk/reshelp/findhelprestype/bookbind/engembbook/embroideredbookbind.html">"English embroidered bookbindings"</a>. <i>British Library</i><span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">13 May</span> 2016</span>.</cite></span>

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<li id="cite_note-ABC_Binding-3"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-ABC_Binding_3-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-ABC_Binding_3-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-ABC_Binding_3-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><cite id="CITEREFGreenfield1998" class="citation book cs1">Greenfield, Jane (1998). <i>ABC of bookbinding</i>. New Castle, DE: Oak Knoll Press. p. 133. <a href="ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <bdi>1884718418</bdi>.</cite></span>

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<li id="cite_note-ABC_collectors-4"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-ABC_collectors_4-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-ABC_collectors_4-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><cite id="CITEREFCarter2004" class="citation book cs1">Carter, John (2004). <i>ABC for book collectors</i> (8th ed.). New Castle, DE: Oak Knoll Press. p. 91. <a href="ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <bdi>1584561122</bdi>.</cite></span>

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<li id="cite_note-:0-5"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:0_5-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:0_5-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:0_5-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:0_5-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><cite id="CITEREFPrideaux1989" class="citation book cs1">Prideaux, S. T. (1989). "Appendix I: Embroidered Book-Covers.". <i>An Historical Sketch of Bookbinding</i>. Routledge. pp. <span class="nowrap">140–</span>168. <a href="ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <bdi>978-0-82-404024-6</bdi>.</cite></span>

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<li id="cite_note-:1-6"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:1_6-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:1_6-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:1_6-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:1_6-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:1_6-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><cite id="CITEREFDavenport1899" class="citation book cs1">Davenport, Cyril (1899). <i>English Embroidered Bookbindings</i>. London: Kegan Paul, Trench, Trübner and Company, Limited.</cite></span>

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<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="External_links">External links</h2></div>

<ul><li><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://libweb5.princeton.edu/visual_materials/hb/cases/embroidered/index.html">Embroidered bindings</a> from "Hand Bookbindings: Plain and Simple to Grand and Glorious," exhibited at <a href="Princeton_University" title="Princeton University">Princeton University</a>'s <a href="Princeton_University_Library" title="Princeton University Library">Firestone Library</a>, November 10, 2002 through April 20, 2003</li>

<li><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://luna.folger.edu/luna/servlet/s/13yd2x">Embroidered bindings</a> from the <a href="Folger_Shakespeare_Library" title="Folger Shakespeare Library">Folger Shakespeare Library</a>'s Binding Images Database (mostly 17th century English)</li></ul></div><div><div class="zim-footer">

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